A tumble dryer not heating is one of the most common appliance faults of the winter, and the timing is never good: the drum turns, the cycle runs its full hour and the washing comes out as damp as it went in. The cause is usually one of three things, and two of them are cheap. This guide explains the differences between vented, condenser and heat pump dryers, what you can safely check yourself, what a repair costs in Woking and when appliance repair stops being worth the money.
Why the drum turns but nothing warms
Heat in a vented or condenser dryer comes from an electric element of about 2 to 2.5 kW, controlled by a thermostat and protected by a thermal cut-out and, on most models, a one-shot thermal fuse. The fuse exists because a dryer that overheats is a fire risk. When airflow is restricted by a full lint filter, a kinked vent hose or a blocked condenser, the temperature at the element climbs, the thermal fuse blows and the dryer runs cold from then on. Electrical Safety First lists tumble dryers among the appliances most often involved in domestic fires, and the thermal fuse is what keeps that number down.
The second cause is the element itself, which burns out with age like a kettle element. The third is a failed thermostat or a control board that no longer calls for heat. A tumble dryer not heating on any programme almost always points to one of the three; one that heats briefly then stops usually has a thermostat or airflow problem rather than a dead element.
Vented, condenser and heat pump dryers
The type of dryer changes the diagnosis and the repair bill, so check the label on the door before calling anyone.
- Vented dryers push hot damp air out through a hose to the outside. They are the simplest and cheapest to repair, and a blocked or kinked hose is the most common cause of a blown thermal fuse.
- Condenser dryers cool the damp air in a heat exchanger and collect the water in a tank. A condenser clogged with lint, or a float switch stuck because the tank is full, stops the heat.
- Heat pump dryers use a compressor and refrigerant rather than an element, run at lower temperatures and cost more to buy. There is no element to replace; a loss of heat usually means blocked filters at the heat exchanger or, more seriously, a compressor or refrigerant fault that is often uneconomic to fix.
Heat pump dryers also take longer to feel warm, and a cool drum after ten minutes on a low-temperature programme is normal, not a fault.
Safe checks before you book
Unplug the dryer before touching anything beyond the filter. These checks take fifteen minutes and solve a fair share of tumble dryer not heating calls.
- Clean the lint filter in the door and, on a condenser or heat pump model, remove and rinse the condenser unit or lower filter behind the kick plate.
- Empty the water tank on a condenser or heat pump dryer and make sure it clicks fully home. Many models refuse to heat when the tank is full.
- On a vented dryer, pull the hose off the wall outlet and check it is clear and not crushed behind the machine.
- Look for a small red reset button on the back panel. Some dryers have a resettable thermal cut-out; press it with the machine unplugged and try again.
- Check that the programme selected actually heats. Air-only and cool-tumble settings are easy to pick by mistake.
If the dryer heats after a filter clean and a reset, the fault was airflow and you have fixed it. If it trips again within a few cycles, something is still restricting the air and the dryer should not be used until it is found.
Repair costs for a tumble dryer not heating
A call-out with diagnosis is typically £60 to £100, and a repair including parts and labour usually lands between £100 and £250 all in. Woking and the rest of Surrey sit at the upper end of those ranges, as the south east does for most trades. A thermal fuse or thermostat is a cheap part and a short job, so expect the lower end.
An element is £30 to £80 as a part and takes longer to fit because the back or the drum has to come out. A control board is £80 to £200 for the part alone and pushes the bill towards the top of the range.
Heat pump dryers are the exception. A compressor or a refrigerant leak is specialist work, parts are expensive and many engineers will not attempt it on a machine out of warranty. Our guide to choosing appliance repair engineers in Woking explains what to ask before booking, and the Buckinghamshire guide to what moves the price of appliance repair applies equally here.
What is different in Woking
Woking’s housing splits between the postwar estates of Sheerwater, Maybury and Goldsworth Park, where dryers tend to live in a small kitchen or garage, and the new flats around the town centre and Victoria Square, where a condenser or heat pump model sits in a cupboard with no window. Garage dryers suffer in winter: a vented machine in a cold, damp garage draws in cold air and condenses inside its own ducting. A cupboard dryer with no air around it overheats and trips its fuse on the first cold day. The fix for both is airflow before anything else.
Engineers covering Woking usually work from Guildford or along the M25 corridor, so same-day visits are possible but slots fill quickly in December. Parts for Bosch, Hotpoint and Beko models are stocked widely; less common brands can mean a wait of a week.
When to call a professional
Call once the filter, condenser and tank checks have not restored heat, or sooner if you smell burning or see scorch marks on the filter housing. Replacement wins when the quoted repair is more than half the price of a comparable new machine or the dryer is over eight years old, and a new vented model starts at around £200 while heat pump models run £400 to £700. Anything involving the mains lead, plug or internal wiring is engineer territory.
Our help desk reviews appliance enquiries, confirms availability and checks credentials before anything is agreed. It is free, and nothing is booked until the team confirms. Request help here.
Questions people ask
Why does my tumble dryer run but not get hot?
The motor and the heater are separate circuits, so the drum can turn while the heat has failed. The usual causes are a blown thermal fuse after the airflow was restricted by lint, a burnt-out element, or a thermostat that no longer calls for heat. On condenser and heat pump models a full water tank or a clogged condenser also stops the heat. Clean the filters and empty the tank before booking an engineer.
Can I replace a tumble dryer thermal fuse myself?
It is a cheap part, but reaching it means removing the back or the drum, and the fuse blew for a reason. Fitting a new one without clearing the lint or the blocked vent that caused the overheat recreates a fire risk. Unless you are confident with appliance wiring and have the machine unplugged throughout, leave it to an engineer; the job sits at the cheap end of a repair call.
How much does it cost to fix a tumble dryer that is not heating?
As an indicative range, a call-out with diagnosis is £60 to £100 and a completed repair including parts is £100 to £250, with Woking and Surrey towards the upper end. A thermal fuse or thermostat costs least; an element or control board costs most. Heat pump dryer compressor faults are often uneconomic to repair and many engineers will advise replacement.
Is it worth repairing a tumble dryer or buying a new one?
Repair if the machine is under eight years old and the quote is less than half the price of a new equivalent. A vented or condenser dryer with a failed fuse or element is almost always worth fixing. Replace if the dryer is older, if the control board or compressor has failed, or if it has already needed repairs. Newer heat pump models cost more to buy but far less to run.
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Describe your job →Guidance is general and refers to the authority that sets each rule. Costs are indicative ranges; always get written quotes. Trade availability and credentials are confirmed when you enquire.
